DO HAIR VITAMINS REALLY WORK? EXPERTS WEIGH IN

While certain cuts and colors may fall in and out of favor, long, luscious, healthy hair is always on trend. Hair vitamins, whether multis packed with biotin or standalone collagen supplements, promise to speed up hair growth and keep strands shiny and strong. Dermatologist Dendy Engelman, M.D., says the term often refers to blends with biotin, vitamin B, vitamin D, and keratin. But do hair vitamins actually work?

It's not a simple yes or no answer. Dermatologist Mamina Turegano, MD, FAAD, says it depends on the ingredients. Regardless, she recommends soliciting the help of a dermatologist or trichologist to create a personalized hair health plan. “Remember, hair loss is complex and probably best to see a dermatologist to make sure you get the underlying cause figured out because some supplements may be better for your hair loss than others,” she says.

Ahead, learn which ingredients dermatologists recommend and what underlying causes may be to blame for lackluster hair.

Meet Our Expert

• Mamina Turegano, MD, FAAD, is a triple board-certified dermatologist, internist, and dermatopathologist with a special interest in holistic medicine in New Orleans.
• Gina Ashforth, MD, FAAD, is a general dermatologist in private practice at Morgan Dermatology in New Jersey.
• Dendy Engelman, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City and Nutrafol expert.

The Science Behind Hair Growth

To understand how support hair growth, it’s key to have a fundamental understanding of the phases of the hair growth cycle.

“Hair grows in four stages: anagen, catagen, telogen and exogen,” says Turegano. “The anagen phase is the stage of active growth—this is when the hair follicle is producing new hair cells, which results in visible hair growth and it can last from two  to seven  years, depending on genetics, age, and hair location.” The length of time that your anagen phase lasts for determines how long your hair can grow. “During this phase, hair grows about one centimeter every month or half an inch and about 85 to 90 percent of scalp hairs are in the anagen phase at any given time,” she adds.

Next is the catagen phase: “This phase is also known as the transitional phase between active growth and rest,” says Turegano. “During this phase, the hair follicle shrinks and detaches from the dermal papilla, the structure at the base of the hair follicle, that supplies nutrients to growing hair—and only one to three percent of hairs are in the catagen phase for around two to three weeks.”

Then comes the telogen phase, during which "the hair follicle remains dormant and no longer produces new hair cells,” Turegano explains. “This phase lasts around three to four months and the hair is fully formed but not actively growing.”

Finally, hair enters the exogen phase. “This is when old hair sheds to allow for new growth,” says Turegano. “At any point in time, about ten to fifteen percent of scalp hairs are in the telogen phase.”

Ingredients Linked to Hair Health

According to the pros, there are common ingredients found in hair vitamins for good reason—each delivers a targeted result to help hair growth. But there are also off-the-radar ingredients that can be a total gamechanger and may not be found in the hair vitamin you're reaching for. Here, are the exact ingredients that the pros say can truly deliver in terms of hair growth and determine if a hair vitamin really works.

Biotin

“Biotin helps produce keratin, a protein that makes up hair, skin and nails and for hair growth specifically, biotin enhances the production of keratin, improving the hair’s appearance and reducing breakage,” Engelman says. Turegano notes that while the vitamin B7 derivative is very common in hair focused formulas, "biotin's effectiveness is still debated," as available studies have small sample sizes. That said, Turegano says supplementing with Biotin can be beneficial for people with deficiencies. “But, there are drawbacks—high doses can alter the lab test results for cardiac markers tested during a heart attack so I don’t recommend taking more than 5000 mcg of biotin a day,” she says.

Niacinamide

Best known for its role in soothing skincare products, this B3 derivative improves blood circulation to hair follicles, which Turegano notes can promote healthy hair growth and enhance hair texture.

Collagen

“Collagen is a protein found throughout the body, including in the skin, bones and connective tissues,” notes Engelman. “Since collagen is a component of hair follicles, this protein can help strengthen the hair shaft and prevent breakage as well as support skin’s structure and hydration, promoting a healthy scalp.”

Turegano points to a 2019 study published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, which linked oral collagen supplementation to improvements in hair density and scalp coverage. "Researchers suggested that collagen’s supportive role in the dermal structure, along with its antioxidant properties, could contribute positively to hair health.” 

Turegano is a fan of hydrolyzed marine collagen peptides, a popular supplement to scoop into a morning smoothie or coffee. “These peptides provide the building blocks for strong hair and deliver moisture to the scalp,” she explains.

Vitamin A

Engelman explains that by promoting cell turnover, vitamin A can help keep hair moisturized and follicles healthy, promoting overall hair growth. But other experts warn against experimenting with vitamin A. “Although vitamin A is great for the skin, its derivatives have been reported to cause hair shedding when taken orally,” says dermatologist Gina Ashforth, MD, FAAD. “Vitamin A is thought to arrest the onset of the anagen phase of the hair cycle and impair the anchoring of hair during the telogen phase, ultimately leading to increased hair shedding.”

Vitamin C

It may be better known for its immunity benefits, but vitamin C plays a key role in the production of collagen, a protein that's essential to hair health. “Vitamin C is known for its antioxidant properties and its role in collagen synthesis,” Engelman explains. “It supports hair health by promoting collagen production, which strengthens hair and improves its structure, helping to keep hair strong and visibly shiny.”

Vitamin E

“Vitamin E is a vitamin with powerful antioxidant properties that helps improve blood circulation to the scalp, ensuring that hair follicles receive more oxygen and essential nutrients,” Engelman says.

Keratin

“Keratin is a protein that creates structure for hair, skin and nails, which can help strengthen hair, improve its appearance, and reduce breakage,” Engelman explains.

Saw Palmetto

“Saw palmetto promotes hair growth by reducing DHT or dihydrotestosterone, a hormone that shrinks hair follicles and leads to progressive hair thinning,” says Turegano. “This is good for male as well as female pattern baldness which is also referred to as androgenetic alopecia.”

Zinc

“Zinc is a vital mineral for the structural integrity of hair,” Turegano notes. “It’s a potent inhibitor of hair follicle regression and an accelerator of hair follicle recovery.”

She references a 2016 study which evaluated serum zinc levels in patients with various forms of hair loss, including alopecia areata and telogen effluvium. “The study revealed that patients experiencing hair loss had significantly lower serum zinc levels compared to healthy controls, and zinc supplementation was shown to improve hair regrowth in those with zinc deficiency.”

MSM

According to Turegano, this mostly unknown ingredient with a full name of methylsulfonylmethane, is important because the main ingreident is sulfur, which is “vital for generating hair cartilage and collagen in the skin,” she says.

Adaptogens

“Ashwagandha and shatavari are both adaptogens that help balance stress hormones and support a healthy hair growth cycle,” says Turegano.

Turmeric

“Curcumin is an ingredient that’s found in turmeric and is a supercharged antioxidant that addresses multiple root causes of hair thinning and is five hundred times more potent than turmeric alone,” shares Turegano.

Vitamin D

“Vitamin D has anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory properties and regulates keratinocyte differentiation and proliferation,” says Turegano. Of course, supplementing with vitamin D is especially helpful for those who are deficient.

Turegano cites a 2013 study published in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology exploring the relationship between vitamin D levels and hair loss in women with androgenetic alopecia. Researchers found that women with this condition had significantly lower levels of vitamin D compared to a control group, suggesting the vitamin may play a role in hair loss.

Ashforth is more skeptical of the available evidence, saying that although “vitamin D is produced in the skin and plays a role in the regulation of the hair cycle, limited research shows that vitamin D supplementation can improve hair regrowth in patients,” she says. “But because of the high prevalence of vitamin D deficiency in the general population, it is reasonable to check vitamin D levels in patients who have hair loss and treat the deficiency accordingly,” she says. That said, she warns against taking vitamin D supplements without a deficiency, as excessive levels of vitamin D can do more harm than good.

Other Factors Underlying Hair Loss

While hair vitamins are marketed to everyone, it's vital to understand whether you're getting enough of them elsewhere in your diet. “There are two important scenarios to differentiate when it comes to vitamin supplementation for hair health—supplementing in the setting of a known vitamin deficiency versus supplementing without a known deficiency,” Ashforth says. “Most hair supplements and vitamins  are available over the counter and are not regulated by the FDA, making it easy to overdose or mis-dose a specific vitamin.”

Plus, Ashforth says, eliminating or diagnosing underlying conditions is critical, too. “Alopecia is an umbrella term that encompasses dozens of distinct medical conditions—and to get an accurate diagnosis, it helps to see if blood tests reveal actual vitamin deficiencies.”

Although choosing a well formulated hair vitamin is key, seeing a dermatologist to help choose the right blend is important. “Hair loss is complicated,” says Turegano. “Which is why I always recommend seeing your dermatologist to diagnose the root of your issue rather than looking for a quick fix.” Turegao suggests a multifaceted approach: “I start with a thorough medical and family history review, a physical exam and a biopsy, if needed,” she says. “I also order lab work to check for underlying deficiencies or hormonal imbalances and prescribe medicines and suggest supplements and topical products depending on my final diagnosis.”

Engelman points out that there are both internal and external factors that can affect hair growth that need to be taken into account when choosing a hair vitamin. “Several factors can affect hair growth or disrupt the hair growth phases, including hormonal changes, stress, lifestyle, metabolism, nutrition and aging,” says Engelman.

The Takeaway

While every hair vitamin will not work for everyone, specific ingredients can help support overall hair health, particularly in people with vitamin deficiencies. Experts recommend consulting a dermatologist to test for vitamin deficiencies and determine any underlying causes of hair loss. Then, together you can create an evidence-based plan that will work for your body's needs.

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2024-09-11T18:18:09Z dg43tfdfdgfd